Kindness of Strangers [news]
We were blessed again with a pleasent day for cycling; We made good time and decided to stop in at the Big Apple, in for a snack and a look around. The store, housed in an old barn, was full of the bounties of fall, and though apples made up the bulk of what was being sold, Acorn, butternut and blue hubard squash, as well as potatoes could be found. In a side room, filling row upon row of shelves, were a full assortment of jams,jellies and preseves.
While Clint and I bought some cider and doughnuts Jo was having a conversation with one of the folks working in the store, turns out she was an aunt of a good friend of ours. A small world. We thanked them all and before we departed we decided to get a group shot in front of the storeof us and the store crew. Clint set up the tripod, we all smiled and said cheese and with that done we started to get back on our bikes but, before we could get going, we were brought back into the store and given free cider doughnuts and the best apple turnovers. Few things make a touring cyclist happier than free carbs. A huge thanks to the folks at the Big Apple.
The Kancamagus [news]
I have done a number of long distance bike trips in the past and one of the pleasures of planning such an adventure is sitting down with an atlas and looking at all the possible routes. This being Clints first major bicycle trip I let him have the fun of picking our path. With just a few pointers, a hand full of highlight markers and a new road atlas Clint was now the Team Navigator.
One of the first things I noticed when he handed me back the Atlas was rather than take a more direct route down the coast, Clint had drawn a more ambitious course that would take us through the white mountains and over the Kancamagus pass. The last time I rode the "Kanc" was close to fourty years ago and this was in the family station wagon. I remember wondering if we would ever make it to the summit. When we did, my next thought was "would we survive the decent?" Overlooking the atlas I was just a few weeks away from riding the Kancamagus highway with a fully loaded touring bike. This is what happens when you let a healthy eighteen year old boy pick your route. Conclusively, if I survive this trip I'm going to be in such great shape.
We camped the night before at the Glen Ellis campground, on the Saco river, and though closed for the season, the owners welcomed us. Without charge the owners let us spend the night. We picked a nice spot by the river, campsite 156, with a beautiful view of the mountains. While the tent was being set up, Clint built a nice fire in the fire ring and soon all was as it should be.
The next day had come. We ate a hearty breakfast, broke camp and after filling our water bottles at the local convenience store, we set out for Bartlett NH where we would face our first challenge of the day, the Bear mountain pass.
The road starts not far from the center of town and we quickly find out what is in store. Nothing gradual about the start. It was not long before our light hearted banter ended and we concentrated on the job of keeping the bikes moving forward. This was just the start. The Kancamagus Highway was still hours away.
We reached the summit of bear mountain. It was now a down hill run to the small town of Passaconaway and then to the "Kanc". It is always exciting to take a long down hill run, but for us it felt like we were loosing ground that we had fought so hard to gain. Hours of peddling to gain altitude and in seconds it is gone.
We stopped for lunch in Passaconaway. The sun was out but a cool northwest wind made us seek the lee of a barn to enjoy a little rest with some food. Northwest. That would be a headwind. It is said that a novice cyclist dreads the hills but a veteran dreads the headwinds. We now had to contend with both. Lunch over we saddled up and with spirits high we set out to face our first big challenge of our ride.
From Passaconaway the Kancamagus highway starts out rather gradual as it makes its way through the valley while running alongside the Swift river. The wind was beginning to pick up and what would have been a rather easy ride on level terrain became increasingly more tiresome. Would the wind let up when we started our most vertical climb?
The road became steeper and we settled into our own pace. Clint in the lead with his legs acting like pistons, Jo, some how making it look effortless, and myself, wondering if I could suck in enough wind and create a vacum around myself.
The wind increased and at times brought us to complete stops. Up we went, stopping now and then for a hand full of trailmix and some water. We could not rest for long as we did not want to risk letting our legs think we had finished for the day.
Our last stop before reaching the summit was at lilly pond. A beautiful place to spend some time but we would have to enjoy that some other day. A Motorist, Paul Axlerod, had stopped to see if any moose were about. He talked with us for a bit and told us that the pass was only about four miles ahead, only that it was a steady seven percent grade. Having once owned a Volkswagon bus I new just what a challenge an incline like that could be, plus the wind was becoming stonger and with more frequent gusts.
Another hour or so and we would be at what would feel like the top of the world for us. Not far at all. Just around the corner. Clint spotted the little hut that marked the overlook just a few yards below the summit. Just a little bit more.
Winds were trying their best to keep us from reaching our goal. Heads down and legs pumping we pushed on. We made it! After four hours of near constant climbing we had reached our goal. The skies were dark and turbulent and all the trees resisted the constant gusts feebly. We chatted a bit with a few tourists that had driven to the top. What a great feeling to look down at the valley below and be able to say that you had biked to the top. Now came our reward. After posing for photos at the summit and checking our brakes we began the long decent down into Lincoln. A glorious half hour run with a start on a nine percent grade. Then it was over. We had done it. We went to bed that night feeling tired but great. We thought that the next few days would be a piece of cake. If you have ever driven route 118 from Lincoln to Warren NH then you know this was not the case. Eight and nine percent grades all the next day. No reasting on our laurels for Team Bowditch.
Getting Ready up in Maine [news]
The weeks have past and now it is just a matter of days before Jovanna, Clint and I head out on our bicycle adventure.
I have gone through all my gear numerous times, cleaned and resealed the tent, repaired my thermarest mattress and countless other little tasks that must be done before starting out.
In the past I have used front and rear panniers but in an effort to remove as much weight off the rear tire I have purchased a B.O.B. trailer. The big challenge is going to be avoiding the temptation to over pack.
I can remember setting out for my first trip. Loaded down with everything but the kitchen sink. I went once around the block and then unpacked everything, spread it all out and then brutally sorted through it all. Hiking boots? Gone. film camera and tripod? gone. extra shirts, pants and socks? gone. I managed to reduce my gear by a good twenty pounds and days later I would go through all my possessions again and get ride of more detrus. Having two other people to share the load will also be a great advantage. When you go solo, you carry it all, but with others the weight can be divided.
This will be, by far, the longest bicycle journey that I have taken. Almost doubling my previous trips. It will also be the longest that I have biked with other people, but I can think of few individuals that I would be willing to spend that much time on the road with. Living on the schooner in the summer brings the crew into a very close working relationship. Sometimes it can be a struggle and, like this summer with Jovanna and Clint, it can be a joy.
Well, it's time for me to go repack and see what else I can do without.
See you on the road, Paul
